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How a Philly Bouncer Became an Organic Farmer: Kegan Hilaire’s Journey to Sustainable Agriculture

Kate Tucker • October 3, 2023

Food. Everybody needs it, not everybody gets it in the same ways at the same levels of freshness and nutrition. And with human population projected to reach over 9 billion by 2050, how are we gonna grow all that food?


To kick off this season of the HOPE Is My Middle Name podcast we’re looking at food, how we get it, how we grow it, and how our biggest challenges might require smaller solutions. And since I’ve been spending a lot of time with farmers across America, I figured there was one out there who could show us a thing or two about the BIG the impact of small farmers.


Enter Kegan Hilaire, a nightclub bouncer who found himself in the middle of a field with a handful of seeds and a dream to bring healthy, organic food to everyone, especially those who can least afford it. Today, Kegan is the owner of Blackbird Farms, an organic vegetable farm in Emmaus, Pennsylvania, and as Small Farms and Diversified Vegetable Consultant for Rodale Institute, he’s helping other folks start their own sustainable agriculture ventures.


It began with an egg. One fateful day, Kegan cracked open a pasture-raised organic egg with an impossibly orange yolk and he wondered, “Why is this egg so much better than the ones in the grocery store?” Well, it turns out, we are what we eat, eats. Eggs from a happy pasture-raised chicken eating organic feed, they’re gonna look happy and taste even happier.

Kegan was sold. He would leave his career in sales, go back to bouncing at night and work mornings on a farm to figure out how he could grow healthy organic food for the future.

Here are some takeaways from the incredible journey he shares with us on Hope Is My Middle Name.

Small Change Big Growth

As a complete beginner, Kegan turned his parents backyard into a market-garden CSA supporting 110 people on ⅛ of an acre. He went on to start Blackbird Farms which operates entirely on the CSA model, with a sliding scale and at least 10% of shares set aside for those who can’t afford them.

What’s a CSA? It’s a subscription-style service offered by farmers to the public often in the form of weekly “shares.” A “share” is usually a box of fresh vegetables and fruit, with other tasty farm products sometimes included.

Why did Kegan build his business on the CSA model?

“80% of people who join a CSA will join another one, even if they leave. You've forever changed how a lot of those people get fruits and vegetables. It doesn't come from a store anymore, it comes from a farm. [...] It really changes how people look at and access food for the rest of their lives.”

Healthy Food

And why does this matter? Local, organic food is better for your health. According to Rodale Institute:

“The food we eat today contains less protein, calcium, phosphorus, iron, riboflavin, and vitamin C than food produced just a half-century ago.”

What changed half-century ago? We moved away from small local farming and into mass-produced industrial agriculture that favored high yields over nutrition, flavor, and soil health. With that mass-production, we started importing massive amounts of food. According to Jose Garcia, operations manager of Houston’s Moonflower Farms, 66% of the food that we import across the Mexican border goes to waste. And considering most produce loses 30% of its nutrients within 3 days of harvest, buying local is just better math.

Healthy Economy

Speaking of math, supporting local agriculture keeps dollars in our communities, which is good for everyone.

“The Young Farmers Coalition quoted that 96% of what small farms purchase are purchased within a 50 mile radius. So the shirts that we have for the farm were union-made in the US and screen printed down the street from my parents' house.”

I’d rather buy a t-shirt from my neighbor than from H&M. With local farms, we get to meet the folks who labored to grow and produce our food. That is powerful. We need them, and they need us.

And they need good soil. CSAs like Kegan’s offer composting, which offsets that unfortunate reason some of us subscribe to a CSA and then cancel. We don’t always have time to cook that delicious produce. But one man’s trash is another man’s treasure. If you don’t eat your zucchini, it goes right back to where it came from, enriching the soil for another harvest. How’s that for regenerative agriculture?

Healthy Soil

Soil is everything. Remember the Dust Bowl? Industrial agriculture, deforestation, and widespread development have severely depleted our topsoil. Scientists project we have only 60 years of topsoil left. With composting and regenerative agriculture, we can restore the soil which means we can keep growing food.


But as Jonathan Foley writes in National Geographic, “55 percent of the world’s crop calories feed people directly; the rest are fed to livestock (about 36 percent) or turned into biofuels and industrial products (roughly 9 percent).”

The good news, Kegan tells us, is that:

“Most of the edible crops for humanity, like 90% of them, come from smallholder farms around the world. They're on less than five acres, they're growing independently, they're not involved in large corporations, they're just doing it themselves, for themselves and their community. So organic is already feeding the world and conventional never did.”

Healthy Planet

Buying from those small local farms and composting what you don’t eat also reduces your carbon footprint. It takes less fossil fuels to bring the food to market and you’re cutting down on food waste, which according to the EPA, is the most common material found in US landfills. In fact, every year Americans throw away 119 billion pounds of food– that’s 40 percent of all our food– food that off-gasses methane, a greenhouse gas 80 times more impactful than CO2 in the near term.



Not to mention that when you save your zucchini from the landfill and compost it instead, that helps your local farmer grow more food which pulls carbon out of the atmosphere where it’s harmful, and puts it right back into the soil, where it’s actually needed. Did you know there is more carbon in the first three feet of soil, than all the atmospheric carbon combined? Nature is wise beyond her years.

Healthy YOU

If after all of this, YOU want to try your hand at growing your own food, hooray! If we are all able to grow just enough food to feed ourselves and a few neighbors, well then, problem solved.

Maybe you’re not ready to leave your career behind like Kegan did and head for the fields, but it doesn’t have to be all or nothing. As Kegan says:

“Anyone who devotes an intentional portion of their life to the production of food I would consider a farmer. If you're a backyard gardener growing for yourself, you're doing some amount of farming.”

If I can do it, you can do it. What started as a weedy strip of ground between a brick wall and some concrete turned into more food than I can even give away and tons of beauty too. I LOVE participating in nature’s miraculous cycle. Watching a bee turn a flower into a fruit is a spectacle to behold.


Whether you’re growing herbs in jars on your windowsill or planting a community garden, there are tons of resources available and as Kegan said, spreadsheets to help keep you on task :) In fact, Kegan is now available nationwide as a consultant for small farmers, so if you are ready to take the next step, reach out to Rodale Institute. 

FIND YOUR FARMER 

If you can’t grow your own food, don’t despair. There are almost 2 million farms in the US and around 80% are small farms! Find your nearest CSA or connect with your local farmer at localharvest.org.


Follow HOPE Is My Middle Name wherever you listen to podcasts for more inspiring stories of everyday Americans doing BIG daring things to make the world a little better. #HopeIsMyMiddleName

By Kate Tucker November 7, 2023
West Virginia is a mythical place wildly misunderstood and often overlooked, chock full of natural resources and endless stunning vistas, despite having been ravaged by extractive industries and left to pick up the pieces of the energy transition in real-time. My family comes from West Virginia; from Sicily and Scotland, they settled in the hills of Appalachia, which may have looked a little like the Highlands, a little like Mount Etna. They came for the coal, or the promise of a gainful employment. My grandfather worked in the mines until he worked his way out of them, landing a more sustainable job driving truck. He died of cancer when he was 35. Although I never met him, I looked for him every summer in those misty mountains, winding our way back to Coalton with the windows down, my mom singing along to John Denver. Almost Heaven, West Virginia isn’t just coal mines and country roads. Called the Birthplace of Rivers, the state sits on the Eastern Continental Divide, where 40 rivers and 56,000 miles of streams provide drinking water for millions of people from the Chesapeake Bay out to the Gulf of Mexico.
By Kate Tucker October 10, 2023
I met Alan Graham on the other side of a Google search  for sustainable homes for the homeless. I had heard of communities working on innovative housing solutions, like Seattle where people are building tiny homes in their backyards with the help of groups like the The Block Project . But then I stumbled upon Community First! Villag e, an enclave of 400+ chronically homeless residents now living in permanent homes alongside neighbors and friends. I had so many questions. How do you even begin to develop a place like this? How do you manage the ever-evolving needs of a population accustomed to being underserved, disregarded, unwanted? How do you organize systems to support the only approach that could work, a full-scale holistic overhaul of what it means to serve the homeless, and to live in community with one another. Our understanding of homelessness in America varies based on geography, privilege, and personal experience. Even the way we talk about homelessness is fraught with preconceived notions and misconceptions. Do we call people “homeless,” or are they “unhoused?” How many times do we give cash to the guy on the corner before it makes a difference? Do we give him anything at all? If I stop and listen to this person in the parking lot, will they just spin me a story? Are they dangerous? Why are people in the richest country in the world living without shelter? Who is responsible for fixing this? Who decides? I asked all of these questions and then I met Shirley. I'm drinking coffee on a gray winter's morning in Nashville, and from my apartment window I can see the line of traffic on Hermitage Ave spilling into downtown. But today on the sidewalk, there’s a woman in a colorful dress with several bags slung over her shoulders. She’s bending down in the tiny space between the chain link fence and the sidewalk picking up something off the ground, over and over, like she’s harvesting flowers. But nothing grows there. More out of curiosity than generosity, metered with my usual social anxiety, I leave my apartment and cross the street with a cup of coffee and a muffin. I’m not sure if she’s homeless, and I don’t want to offend her, but nobody hangs out on that tiny stretch of sidewalk and it is breakfast time. I introduce myself and we get to talking. Her name is Shirley. She’s just a few years younger than me. She's on the run from a bad relationship in Georgia, but she's had to leave her kids behind and she needs to get them back. I offer to buy her breakfast at the diner next door and she declines, but we agree to meet the next day and talk some more. Oh, and she was collecting tiny leaves to make into paper. I am determined to get her some help. Surely in a town as resourced as Nashville, with a well-connected advocate, it will be simple enough. I start making calls. Nobody can take her in. She isn’t on drugs. She doesn’t have a disability. She isn’t mentally ill. She isn’t an addict. She isn’t a resident of Tennessee, and she might not be an American citizen. Her plan to start a business selling stationery, well that’s the best thing we’ve got. We come to this conclusion over breakfast at McDonalds inside Walmart where we're picking up toiletries and other basics. All her belongings are now temporarily stored in the trunk of my Honda Civic. She asks me to take her to a suburb outside of Nashville. She thinks she might have a lead there, someone who knows where her kids are. We drive for twenty minutes and stop at a library just off the interstate. I help her sign up for an email address. It requires a backup phone number and I enter mine. Is that dangerous? I wonder. Who knows. She struggles to log in on her own and I worry that my messages to her will just sit there, unread, locked behind a password neither of us can remember. And that is what appears to have happened. When we part ways that day she says, "I’ll be back in Nashville soon,” and I say, “Don’t forget to check your email, so we can find each other.” I do see her again, a few days later walking down Hermitage Ave, but I’m late for work and traffic is moving fast. I wave as I drive by, but she doesn’t see me. The next day I buy a cell phone, a pay-by-the-month deal. I want to give it to Shirley so she can call me, or call for help, or maybe even call her kids if she can get their number. I wait by my window but she doesn’t show up. I send email after email. I walk down by the river, under bridges, where people without houses build fires to cook dinner. She’s not there. Then, a huge storm hits Nashville. The river swells. They say a handful of people died down there, homeless people caught in the flood and the high winds. I have no way of knowing where Shirley is. Or if she is still alive. A month goes by and I cancel the cell phone. I hope and pray that she’s made it to Georgia and is living with her kids today. My first direct encounter with homelessness left me feeling helpless. And the helplessness I felt was nothing compared with what Shirley faced daily. I had considered inviting her to stay with me in my tiny studio apartment, but in talking with some friends in social services I was advised against it. I had no idea how hard it is to get up off the streets once you find yourself living there. In the United States, the odds that you or someone you know will end up homeless are as slim as 1 percent of 1 percent. But the chances that you will move from chronic homelessness to a permanently housed situation can seem just as dire.
By Kate Tucker December 13, 2022
The National Park Service was established in 1916, and just five years later, Betty Reid Soskin was born. It would take 85 trailblazing years for this force of nature to arrive at her park, but when Betty was made an official ranger at Rosie the Riveter World War II Home Front National Historical Park, she breathed life into it, restoring a wealth of shared American experience that might have otherwise been lost. She recalls visiting only three or four National Parks in her lifetime, including The Grand Canyon, which she refers to as “the grand dame and most beautiful of them all,” but her favorite is the one she suits up for in the morning, the one she calls home. Betty came to the National Park Service as a field representative of the California State Assembly, consulting for Rosie the Riveter World War II Home Front National Historical Park at a time when “it didn’t know what it was to be,” she told us in a video interview. “It had a very limited life, a kind of bumper sticker life — ‘we can do it.’ I was able to help it become what it wound up being.” If not for Betty, Rosie may have been reduced to a bumper sticker. Betty became foundational to getting the story straight. “So many people have lived my history, and so many people have lived your history, and the nation is bereft without those,” she tells park visitors in the documentary No Time to Waste. “What gets remembered depends on who’s in the room remembering.” For Betty, this meant remembering that her participation in the civilian effort to build what President Franklin Roosevelt called “The Arsenal of Democracy” occurred alongside the internment of 120,000 Japanese Americans and the fatal explosions at Port Chicago. As a ranger at Rosie the Riveter, Betty invites visitors to get comfortable with being uncomfortable. “Somebody put a uniform on the life that I was already living,” she explained. “I was active on the home front, but I had completely forgotten it after the war ended, and here was a second time to be able to relive those years. As I lived them, they became alive for me, and I began to be able to share that. There were so many stories that had been forgotten; I was able to bring them back to life. That was something that I hadn’t expected, nor did the people. They were able to relive the stories through me, and that was an exceptional kind of thing to happen.”
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